This under-the-buzz offshoot of a Connecticut favorite comes to the Meatpacking district sans attitude or velvet rope. In tune with local eateries’ mod-industrial design, the restaurant’s large iron doors open onto concrete walls and vaulted ceilings, with a spiral staircase rising from a sleek bar room. It all feels very sophisticated, but the Northern Italian menu oozes exurban prosperity, with lobster, truffle, and caviar garnishing many plates. Still, you’re upmarket in a carnivorous district: Veal—chops, scallopine, and medallions—appears in many forms, even as succulent Chicken alla Romana, adorned with artichokes and red peppers in a garlicky truffle-lime sauce, most impresses. Carpaccio showcases a fine fillet with citrus, sheets of parmesan, and greenmarket-fresh arugula, and pastas like spaghetti con maiale show Valbella at its best.